Sunday 21 December 2008

Egypt, Jordan & Israel trip, Dec 2008 to Jan 2009 - Checking in

Checking in from my hotel in Luxor.

With some luck, I might be able to do a few posts tonight.

Watch this space :-)

Saturday 20 December 2008

Egypt trip, Dec 2008 - Masr al-Qadima (Old Cairo) Part 2

A short walk from the Hanging Church and you can find the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George.


The image of St George as a Roman solider mounted on a fine white Arabian horse and spearing a dragon is a familiar one throughout the Christian East. He is undoubtedly the most popular warrior-saint in the 'hood.

The original Church of St. George was built in the 10th Century. The Holy Family is said to have taken shelter in a place now covered by the Church.

The church had been burned many times. It burned in 1904 and the current structure was built in 1909, but still has some of the older structure's beautiful stained-glass windows.

St. George is the only round church in Egypt (and one of the few round churches still in existence in the East). But unlike the original Church of the Holy Sepulchre and its many imitators, this is only for practical reasons, as the church is built on top the foundations of a Roman round tower.

A relief of St. George and the dragon wrapped around the outer brickwork of the tower



For centuries, the church alternated between Copt and Greek ownership, but since the 15th Century, it has remained Greek Orthodox, and the adjoining monastery of St. George is now the seat of the Greek patriarch. Funnily enough, the church is involved in the Coptic celebration of the Moulid of Mari Girgis (St. George's Day) on April 23 and it is one of the largest Coptic festivals in Cairo.

The church has two main levels: the lower level contains a numbers of small chapels and icons and the upper level is mainly comprised of a large hall. Unfortunately, a large part of the main hall is fenced off. The interior of the hall is very dark and is heavy with incense. Together with the sunbeams that pierced through the stained glass windows, a very special atmosphere was created.

[to be continued]

Egypt trip, Dec 2008 - Masr al-Qadima (Old Cairo) Part 1

We arrived in Cairo at around 1am so we decided to take it easy and have a short city tour during the day.

Our first stop is the Mara Girgis area. It is one of Cairo's oldest still-inhabited neighbourhoods.

In the 6th Century BC, it was a fortified garrison, known as Babylon-in-Egypt.

As we exited the Mari Girgis metro station, there were the remains of two Roman towers. They formed part of the fortifications built by Emperor Trajan in AD 130.


We then visited the 7th Century Al-Muallaqa Church (Church of the Virgin). It is one of the oldest churches in Egypt and it is also the most famous Coptic Christian church in Cairo

The nineteenth century façade with twin bell towers is decorated with modern art biblical designs.

The building is also called the "Hanging Church" as its nave was built on top of a Roman bastion. (This photo is a little confusing, but imagine you are standing on a platform looking down, and this is how high up the church is)

The church is dark but its interior is splendidly decorated.

The main altar (Egyptian Arabic: haikal) screen is made of ebony inlaid with ivory that is carved into segments showing several Coptic Cross designs that date back to around the 12th or 13th century.

13th Century ebony screen inlaid with ivory







The 11th-century marble pulpit surmounts 13 pillars, representing Jesus and the 12 disciples. As customary in Coptic churches, one of the pillars is black (made with basalt), representing Judas, and another is grey, for doubting Thomas. Its steps are carved with a shell and a cross.

The Church is adorned with Icons.


[to be continued]

Thursday 18 December 2008

Egypt trip, Dec 2008 - First note from Cairo

18th December 2008. Our first day in Cairo.

Our hotel is called the Grand Pyramide Hotel and it is located not too far from the Grand Pyramids.

We can see the pyramids from our balcony. The view is kinda surreal: the ancient pyramids are sitting behind a pile of old buildings and a modern highway.