With a hired car, we thought we would make use of it by doing a circuit around the Olympic mountain region.
First, we arrived at Fortress of Fenestrelle.
It is a large structure which comprises of three fortresses, three redoubts, two bastions, all joined by a covered staircase with 4,000 steps. The standard tours are three hours long! Construction for the fortress began in 1728 with the aim to protect the then newly created Kingdom of Piedmont and the work did not stop until 1837. At one time, there were 4,000 workers working on the structure on a daily basis. Napoleon occupied Fenestrelle in 1798, using it as a prison. The fortress overlooks the valley and offers advantageous defense position. It claims to be the largest fort in Europe. At the tourist office, we saw a photo comparing the Fortress of Fenestrelle to a segment of the Great Wall of China. The similarity is striking. Maybe Marco Polo brought back the design to Venice and it somehow passed on to the Piedmont? Who knows? :) After our first stop, we continued on and passed through a number of small villages, until we reached a big town with lots of hotels. But the place was totally empty!
As we drove on, it become clear to us that it is the ski resort town. Italy was the host for the 2006 Winter Olympics and the Game itself was held in the local region. Hence, the large hotel buildings. Next, we reached the Fortress of Exilles. It dates back to the 115, when Counts of Albon had the strategic, military and mercantile power in the area. The fortress has changed hands a few times during the years. After the Paris treaty (15 May 1796) the fortress was completely destroyed by the French and then between 1818 and 1829 was rebuilt in the present structure by the king of Sardinia. Once we were back on the road, we were faced with traffic jam! It took us a bit longer to get to Susa. Susa used to be a Roman town. The centre town is very peaceful and the Roman remains are only a short walk away. The Porta Savoia (Savoy Gate) is a Roman gateway dating from 4th Century. It was remodelled in the Middle Ages though so it is not completely original. The Savoy Gate is joined to the Cathedral of San Giusto, which was built around 1100. Susa is a mountain town and its setting is really beautiful. The Arch of Augustus, built in 8 BC, commemorates the alliance between the local Gaulish chieftain and the Emperor Augustus. There are a number of Roman remains here. Above is the aqueduct.
And this is the outside of the amphitheatre, which is closed to the public at the moment. There was also a mineral spring at the site. We had some of the tasty water and had a rest. When we were back in town, we bought some really really sweet and juicy grapes from the local shop. It is far better than what we get in London, or even the Italian supermarkets! Another church on the river-side. We didn't catch the name... On the way back, we stopped by the glacier-fed lakes near Avigliana. It is breathtakingly beautiful.
For dinner, we had dinner at the Regina Hotel & Restaurant in Pinerolo based on our host's recommendations. We had a long day and we were reward with a very hearty meal with plenty of good wine!
Ravioli with veal Tagliatelle with funghi A local specialty: braised meat in red wine (Barolo) Veal with mushroom sauce And a pretty + tasty dessert! The owner is a very friendly man. He is the second generation owner and he has a thick book of all the clippings about his hotel and restaurants throughout the years.
It was a long days' drive. We were both exhausted by the end of the day. But I must say, the local area is very beautiful and there are so much to see!
For more information:
The Olympic Mountains
http://www.montagnedoc.net/
Regina Hotel and Restaurant
http://www.albergoregina.net/